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Climbing onto the roof of the world

Source:China Daily 2015-12-28

For the most part, the flight to the Tibet autonomous region of China was no different from any other, with the usual turbulence and intermittent interruptions by flight attendants' announcements.

But for a first time visitor, it could best be described as having the anticipation of a journey to an unknown zone, one with great expectations.

A temple in Lhasa, which is situated at 3,650 meters, one of the highest cities in the world. [Photo/China Daily]

A temple in Lhasa, which is situated at 3,650 meters, one of the highest cities in the world. [Photo/China Daily]

When the announcement we had all been waiting for came, after flying for three hours and 45 minutes, it brought a great relief and a sense of fulfillment.

"Ladies and gentlemen you are all welcome to Lhasa Airport, we shall be landing in a short while. Thank you for flying with us." The man who was speaking was evidently the pilot of the aircraft.

A look at my colleague by my side reaffirmed my confident facade, but my fear just wouldn't go away. As we descended, I discovered that we were in the midst of mountains and hills and about to land in the middle of them. There were no houses or buildings in sight.

After the airplane touched down with dozens of tourists, houses suddenly began to appear as if from nowhere. We were at beautiful Lhasa Airport, and there were smiling faces all around me.

As I emerged from the aircraft, filled with excitement, a voice behind me said: "Welcome to the Himalayas!" At first it seemed like an attempt to scare me more, to remind me of the higher altitude. But I realized it was the voice of one of my colleagues who was also filled with excitement.

I hugged him, and I said thanks that at least we made it. Tibet is perched at a high altitude, but it did not matter anymore as I was already here.

I said to my colleagues: "We are probably some of the few Africans who have had such a privilege. Thanks to the Chinese government for giving us African journalists on a tour of China such a rare opportunity."

As a first-time visitor, you quickly begin to feel the difference in the altitude. Lhasa is situated at 3,650 meters, one of the highest cities in the world.

The first thing you experience is a feeling of headache and a loss of breath. Visitors are forewarned and asked to move slowly and drink more water than usual while being monitored for signs of altitude sickness.

It's easy to forget the warning as you arrive to the warm embrace of Tibetans with smiling faces all around, as if reuniting with lost friends or relations.

But the warning of the change in the altitude is repeated. As if on cue, the headache suddenly ramps up like a migraine as the body struggles to adjust to the thin air. This lasted for almost three days and more for some people, who required medication.

Ahead of the journey to Tibet, you are told that arriving with altitude sickness medication is recommended. You become acutely aware of the connection between the body and the environment. You see why people with weak hearts and related ailments are advised not to embark on the journey.

In spite of the altitude challenges in Tibet, it did not take away the luster of expectation. The environment is beautiful and is pollution free. Just in case, canisters of oxygen are available in supermarkets and hotels.

The border of China and Nepal runs through the 8,848-meter summit of Mount Everest, with Tibet on the north side and Nepal on its south side. Earthquakes sometimes affect the area, such as the April Nepal earthquake that killed more than 9,000 people and injured more than 23,000. It triggered an avalanche on Mount Everest, killing at least 19.

Tibet is an area that is dear to the heart of China. The country has committed a lot of resources to its development.

The fear soon gave way to curiosity because of the mystical attachment to the area made famous by Buddhism, the religion of majority of the people. It is a holy ground much talked about worldwide, made up of a religiously conscious people.

Tibet is one of the five autonomous regions of China. It enjoys freedom of religion and a unique culture. The history of Tibet dates back thousands of years. The region was established in 1965 as an autonomous region of China and has since enjoyed equal development with other parts of China.

Tibet has a population of 3.17 million, according to 2014 official census figure. It also has more than a dozen ethnic minorities.

Yeshes Phuntsog, deputy director in charge of regional development, was full of excitement as he talked with us, saying it was the first time the city had received African journalists on a study tour of the area.

He pleaded with us to make good use of the opportunity and correct stereotypes in reporting Tibet. "As you can see, we are a peace-loving people. There is a major difference between the old Tibet and the modern Tibet," he said.

Two factors drive development in the area. They are the need to catch up with development in other parts of China by creating linkages between communities through infrastructure development, and improving transportation in the communities.

Most Tibetans are united in the practice of Buddhism, which dates back to the 7th century. Before that, Tibetans' major religion was a version of the Bon religion, still followed by about 10 percent of the population. Other religions, like Christianity and Islam, exist but remain small minorities.

Development has come to Tibet, says Teng Baoting, senior engineer in the flood control program. The central government has continued to deploy a lot of resources in environmental control and flood management, he says.

"We recognize the peculiar nature of the environment," he says, noting the high plateau's special habitats.

As Tibet prepares to celebrate its 50th anniversary as an autonomous region, there has been development in many aspects of life. Beijing has continued to show strong influence in the development of the area in various ways.

Lhasa looks beautiful, and new vehicles adorn the streets, causing traffic jams during busy periods just like any modern city. But for the average Tibetan, changes are still coming gradually, as they are regulated by the culture of the people.

The use of mobile phones is popular here, and they are seen everywhere you go, even at temples in the hands of monks and lamas (high spiritual priests).

Some residents say there are lots of physical changes in various communities since the creation of the autonomous region.

The author is head of foreign operations for the News Agency of Nigeria. He is on a 10-month scholarship with the China-Africa Press Center in Beijing. The views do not necessarily reflect those of China Daily.

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